How to Choose Carabiners: Am'D, Nano 22 and Photon Lock
By Feathered Friends | Published: 2026-11-02
Category: How-to Guides
A step-by-step process for choosing climbing carabiners, using the Petzl Am'D, CAMP Nano 22, and CAMP Photon Lock to show when locking vs non-locking gates and different shapes make sense.
Quick answer
Choose a carabiner by matching its gate type and shape to the job: use a locking carabiner like the Petzl Am'D or CAMP Photon Lock for belays, anchors, and personal tethering, and use a lightweight non-locking wiregate like the CAMP Nano 22 for racking gear and reducing rope drag on long pitches.
Why gate type matters more than color
A carabiner's gate is the part you interact with most, so start there. Locking gates add a sleeve or screw mechanism that must be closed before the carabiner is trusted for critical connections. Non-locking gates open quickly with one hand, which is why they dominate racking and alpine draws. The trade-off is simple: non-locking gates are lighter and faster, but they can open accidentally under rope movement or against rock, so they are not a substitute for a locked gate at belay or anchor points.
Shape and size change how a carabiner handles
D-shaped carabiners, such as the Petzl Am'D, concentrate strength along the spine and offer a predictable clip-in point. Larger D shapes give more room for gloves and multiple slings, which is why they show up in belay and anchor systems. Smaller, lighter carabiners like the CAMP Nano 22 save weight on a rack, but they offer less surface area for clipping and can feel fiddly with thick gloves. Neither shape is universally better; the decision depends on whether you prioritize handling or weight.
When a lightweight locker makes sense
The CAMP Photon Lock is a full-size D-shaped locking carabiner built for lightweight multi-pitch and high alpine use. Its keylock-style SphereLock gate closure is designed to reduce snagging and presents a slim nose profile. That combination helps when you are clipping and unclipping repeatedly on a route, but a lightweight locker still has a place only if you accept that it is not a heavy-duty rigging carabiner. If your plan includes hauling or top-rope setups with lots of metal-on-metal contact, a larger locker may be more appropriate.
Step-by-step carabiner selection
- List every connection you need to make: Write down each carabiner task: belay device, anchor master point, personal tether, gear racking, alpine draw, or rope-end. Group them into 'must lock' and 'can be non-locking' before you look at products. If you cannot name the task, you are not ready to choose a gate type.
- Assign locking carabiners to critical points: Use a locking carabiner for any connection that must stay closed under load, such as a belay carabiner or anchor master point. The Petzl Am'D is a full-size D-shaped locker with a keylock gate, while the CAMP Photon Lock is a lighter full-size locker for multi-pitch and alpine use. Check that the gate sleeve closes fully and does not snag on slings or rope.
- Choose non-locking carabiners for racking and weight savings: For gear loops and alpine draws, a non-locking wiregate like the CAMP Nano 22 saves weight and clips quickly. Accept that the gate can open accidentally, so keep these away from belay and anchor connections. Do not use a non-locking carabiner where a locked gate is required by your system.
- Match size and shape to your hand and gloves: Try clipping with the gloves you actually wear. Larger D shapes like the Am'D give more room for gloved hands, while smaller carabiners like the Nano 22 can be harder to handle in cold weather. If you frequently climb in gloves, prioritize handling over gram savings. A carabiner you fumble with is a carabiner you may clip incorrectly.
- Check gate action and nose profile before you commit: Open and close the gate several times. A keylock-style gate, as on the Am'D and Photon Lock, is designed to reduce snagging on slings and bolt hangers. A wiregate like the Nano 22 should snap cleanly without catching on the rope. Reject any carabiner that feels gritty, sticks, or fails to close fully.
Product facts to guide your choice
- Am'D Carabiner: Large D-shaped locking carabiner with a keylock-style gate and an ergonomic shape for use with gloves. A good fit for belay systems and anchors where you need a full-size locker that is easy to handle in cold or gloved conditions.
Am'D Carabiner - Nano 22 Carabiner: Wiregate carabiner designed as a lightweight, fully functional climbing carabiner with a deeper basket and refined gate. Useful for racking gear and reducing weight on long routes, but its non-locking gate means it should not replace a locker at critical connection points.
Nano 22 Carabiner - Photon Lock Carabiner: Ultralight locking carabiner with a keylock-style SphereLock gate and slim nose profile. A sensible choice for multi-pitch and alpine use when you want a full-size locker without extra weight, provided you do not need a heavier rigging carabiner.
